When my mouth waters for wines with oak characteristics, I might first think of red Bordeaux variety grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon or Carménère because they are traditionally aged in oak, whether as blends (customary) or single variety offerings (gaining in popularity). In discussing oak aging, we often think of reds first, but whites are also part of the picture.
Just yesterday I ordered a R de Rieussec 2017 Bordeaux that is roughly half Sémillon (a grape that fascinates me) and half Sauvignon Blanc (also fascinating, but for different reasons). This wine is produced as a dry white in a sub-region of Sauterns that neighbors Château d’Yquem, a sweet white wine producer in a league of its own.
If you you appreciate the effects of oak in wine, you are not alone. Many of the world’s fine wines are aged in casks, giving the wines added complexity, richness, flavor and body. Oak imparts wonderful flavor compounds such as vanilla, spices, caramel, and smokiness. The winemakers of Burgundy are known for pioneering techniques to shape the flavors and richness of Chardonnay, including the use of old barrels, in both fermentation and aging. In addition to barrels, both whites and reds can be aged in stainless steel, concrete, amphoras, and other vessels, depending upon the choices of the winemaker. The R de Rieussec was barrel aged, and I can’t wait to receive the delivery at my doorstep in a few days.
Most white wines around the world are fermented in stainless steel tanks, giving the maker control over temperature, oxygen ingress and egress, and other elements of winemaking. Stainless steel tanks are a safe bet for the fermentation of whites. However, some vintners choose to ferment a portion of their white wine in oak barrels, like the making of the wine I just ordered. Twenty percent of the wine is fermented in barrels while the balance is directed to large vats for fermentation. Eventually, the barrel-fermented wine is blended with the batch from the large vats. The winemaker tastes the wine in each barrel to follow its unique characteristics, then decides how much from that barrel will be blended into the whole. This process allows for quite a bit of creativity in the final outcome of the wine. Fermentation in new oak provides expressive flavor and noticeable texture to white wine. If the winemaker ferments in previously used or old, neutral barrels, mostly the texture, rather than the flavor, will be affected.
Red wines require hands-on activities during fermentation to break up the cap of pulp and skins that build up on the surface of the wine. Techniques such as “punching down” ensure that this thick matter is redistributed into the wine so that the color, flavors and tannins will be properly extracted. The intervention that red wine requires makes it practical to use large vessels rather than wine barrels for fermentation. When I ferment wine at home, I gently push down on the pulp and skins and stir them into the wine. This stirring helps to cool the wine when fermentation is intense and the temperatures rises.
Part of my mothering of the wine is to monitor the temperature at least twice daily, and I keep dry ice on hand to cool the wine if necessary. If the fermentation temperature gets too hot, the health of the yeast is at risk and the warmth may attract undesirable organisms. The result can be wine with stewed fruit flavors and muted aromatics . . . wine that is a disappointing shadow of what it could have been. If the fermentation temperature is too low, the yeast can go dormant and stop working. Nobody likes a stuck fermentation. When that happens, you have to figure out how to wake up the yeast so that fermentation can continue until the wine is dry or deal with an end product that is undeveloped and sweeter than planned. Since sweet wines are not as popular in the market as in the past, most makers do everything possible to nurture the yeast throughout fermentation to ensure a dry finish.
During winemaking with grapes, I take sugar readings, taste the wine, examine the skins, seeds, pulp and liquid throughout the fermentation. In this manner, I develop an intimate relationship with the wine, as do many winemakers. Driving the fermentation is my favorite part of homebrewing. Perhaps car lovers feel this love when they take an excursion in a nifty car, especially a stick shift, where you effectively become a part of the machinery that enables the drive.
I once incorporated maple syrup with the juice from apples to create what is known as an acer cider. If you have ever tasted the juice of freshly pressed apples, you know that it is very sweet. The maple syrup I added introduced additional sugar to the mix, overwhelming the yeast and the fermentation stalled after a few days. I tried adding more yeast in hopes of restarting the action but it became clear that the yeast could not survive in that environment.
There was more sugar there than the yeast could process. Note to self: use less maple syrup the next time. Luckily it was a small test batch.
I considered throwing out the acer cider, but then remembered reading about an ancient civilization that fermented wine to about four percent then fortified it with spirits and botanicals. (Fortification is the addition of a distilled spirit, often brandy, to a wine either during or after fermentation.) I decided to give this approach a try since my acer cider had fermented to four percent. The botanicals and alcohol balanced out the sweetness of the cider and stabilized it, and my dinner guests enjoyed it as an after-dinner drink. It is very helpful to continuously learn from others, including ancient civilizations, when it is time for problem-solving.
Speaking about oak, my mind also jumps to Spain, where oak aging is central to the production of that country’s signature grape, Tempranillo. I might also think about an obscure but fascinating wine region, such as the Jura in eastern France, where the wine is matured in oak under a veil of yeast to create the exotic vin jaune, one of the world’s most intriguing and rare wines. Vin jaune is a dry wine produced in a manner that is similar to Spain’s Fino Sherry, which is also dry and complex, relying heavily on yeast for protection and development. Vin jaune is produced from Savagnin grapes, while Fino Sherry is made with Palomino Fino grapes. Another difference between the two is that Fino Sherry is a fortified wine while Vin jaune is not. Of course, when it comes to oak aging, there is also Italy to think about. Barolo wines, made from the Nebbiolo grape, need time in oak to calm their tannins and aid in their evolution. Really, it is difficult to name even one winemaking country that does not use oak to mature their wines gracefully. The list below spotlights the grapes that makers might look to first when considering the use of oak.
During winemaking with grapes, I take sugar readings, taste the wine, examine the skins, seeds, pulp and liquid throughout the fermentation. In this manner, I develop an intimate relationship with the wine, as do many winemakers.
Most grape varieties do well with oak aging, except those that are sensitive to the effects of oxygen. In those cases, the wines will likely be aged in steel or concrete tanks, or the winemaker will blend these delicate wines with other heartier grape varieties before placing them in a barrel. Some varieties have distinctive aromas that the winemaker wants to accentuate, as is common with Grüner Veltliner, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling. In this case, the goal is to preserve fruit purity with no oak flavors and other influences getting in the way. The decision on whether or not to use oak is driven by the winemaker’s intent and creativity, customs, wine laws, budget, and other factors.
French and American oak barrels are often favored by winemakers, though oak can be sourced from many countries. Incidentally, barrels can be made from other types of wood, such as chestnut or acacia, but oak is much more common. France’s tight-grained oak delivers subtle spice, cedar, hazelnut and smoky notes along with silky textures. The comparatively looser-grained American oak is more forthright, boldly contributing vanilla, coconut and cinnamon flavors along with a creamy texture. Older trees tend to have the tightest grains regardless of location. For some regions, the choice of oak has origins in history and politics rather than organoleptic preferences. The Spanish have a long history of disagreements and consequently wars with France. From the sixteenth to the nineteenth century, the Spanish Empire owned some of what is now American land, including Florida, and this access to North America provided a ready resource for sourcing oak without having to deal with the French.
To be made into casks, oak needs to be air-dried, seasoned and toasted over fire. The amount of toasting dramatically affects the finished wine’s flavor. The higher the toast, the more oak influence you will find in the wine. New wine barrels release more intense flavors than used barrels. With each use of the barrel, the flavors imparted by the wood become less pronounced in the wine. There is a trend toward a more subtle use of oak as wine drinkers and critics increasingly favor subtlety and nuance in fine wine. Moreover, wines with subtle oak influences are more easily accessible to drinkers and are ready to drink now, in contrast to heavily oaked wines that require time to calm down the intensity. Casks permit the slow ingress of oxygen, smoothing it out and aiding in the wine’s development. Some of the wine is lost to evaporation when it is being aged; this is known as the “angel’s share.”
Each cask holds several gallons of wine inside its staves (planks), further concentrating the wine for more pronounced flavors. Small casks come into more contact with wine than large casks and therefore take on oakier character. Oak vessels provide an ideal environment for the the natural chemical conversions that wine undergoes as it matures. Winemakers can add oak chips or staves to wine in lieu of using expensive barrels. These additions will add flavor but will not influence the texture of a wine as would a cask. The use of oak chips or staves or even oak powder is one way that mass producers make low-cost wines available to the public.
The amount of time the wine spends in oak also affects the intensity of the wine’s flavors and textures. A fine red wine aged for two years in new oak will have characteristics that are very different from a fine red wine aged for ten years in new oak. As the two-year-old red ages, the tannins will smooth out. Primary fruit flavors will concentrate and evolve from fresh-fruit characteristics to those of dried fruit. Other flavors heretofore hidden by the bold fresh fruit come into their own over time.
Tertiary flavors, those of maturation, can include mushroom, tobacco, forest floor and leather in reds. White tertiary flavors might be ginger, honey and cinnamon. The wine’s color will change, with reds losing color while whites grow darker. The spicy notes imparted into the wine from the cask will mellow. Wine evolves throughout its life cycle and the day you open the bottle, you capture the wine at a particular stage of development. That being said, the majority of wines are intended by the producers to be enjoyed upon release to the public.
Palomino Fino/Listán Blanco
Pinot Blanc (Alsace)
This is one in a series of Grape Detective blogs featuring the attributes of wine and how your love for a specific wine grape may lead you to discover new grapes with similar characteristics. The focus of the list is grape variety and does not include blends, wine regions, or styles.
When you look at a bottle of wine, forget about the price. Think of it this way: Are people who went to Harvard University smarter than those who graduated from a state university? Harvard University grads have more opportunities because of their perceived value. In reality, a state university graduate may be just as smart or smarter. Simply having money behind you does not guarantee anyone’s intelligence or success. It is the same with wine: A bottle of wine that sends you to the moon can be financed by a multi-national conglomerate or a small producer whose survival depends on your purchase of the next bottle.
You might have read in Wine Spectator magazine that the ratings are done blind and without knowledge of the bottle’s price. This gives each bottle the opportunity to speak for itself and to be evaluated on its own merits. You owe that to people and you owe that to wine.
When I reach for a new bottle, I mentally submerge what I know to be the price and instead look for the winemaker’s quality aspiration. Couched another way, What is the intent of the winemaker behind the bottle? Is it a mass-produced wine with pencil-pushing corporate types at the helm? Is it a small, multi-generational producer working in a well-loved vineyard looking to express himself? Is it common plonk offering a ticket to quick inebriation? The bottle itself and the label provide clues but few definitive answers.
Most bottles are sized at 750 ml. The shape, weight and the color of the glass represent choices made by the winemaker. Don’t rush to judgment: A bottle that looks like most others can represent either a high-volume producer with economics in mind or a small producer who is buying what’s affordable on the market. A unique bottle, one that is heavier or has a different shape or color is making a quality statement that will be confirmed or debunked as you taste the wine and learn about the producer. Is the bottle presentation an artistic expression of what’s inside or a cunning ploy to attract the purchase of a wine you will ultimately use for cooking rather than drinking? All of these elements communicate the intent and quality aspiration of the producer. But your investigation of a wine and its bottle has just begun.
Over time, you will find that certain wine bottle shapes provide a clue to the style of the wine or the region of origin. A bottle’s shape often reflects a region’s history and tradition, especially in the Old World. By that I mean countries that are considered the birthplaces of wine such as Europe and the Middle East. For instance, the Burgundy bottle was invented in the nineteenth century as a vessel for producers to package their Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. It’s probably the shape was the most convenient for the glassmakers at the time. Thereafter, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay producers around the world got in line for the same shape. Even now, producers who make wines with similar characteristics to Pinot Noir, such as Nebbiolo, Etna Rosso and Gamay, also choose this classic bottle.
To the southwest of Burgundy in France lies Bordeaux. It’s thought that the Bordeaux bottle, with its high shoulders, was developed soon after the Burgundian bottle by producers who wanted a distinctive shape for their world-class blends. Some historians offer a more practical reason: to capture the sediment of aged Bordeaux blends featuring Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. There’s probably some truth to both theories. If you threaten to pull out my fingernails unless I make a choice, I’m going to say that the winemakers of Bordeaux probably wanted to go to the party sporting something unique to their area. Wouldn’t you?
You might have noticed that wines such as Riesling and Gewürztraminer from the Mozel region of Germany have a unique tall, thin bottle shape. Distribution of these bottles involved a leisurely ride along the Rhine river, in contrast to the swashbuckling high seas travel of Burgundy and Bordeaux exports. The comparatively easy ride down the Rhine of the German wines meant that it was possible to cram as many bottles as possible in the hull of the ship. Hence a tall, delicate bottle was designed to enable capacity.
Now let’s take a closer look at the label on your bottle. Information usually includes the vintage, grapes and/or region, alcohol by volume, the producer, and other facts. Look beyond the words to the presentation. Does the art look like it was done by your next door neighbor or a professional graphic artist? Is the printing muddy or crisp? Incidentally, I perk up when I see a label that looks like it was produced by an amateur. The person producing that iffy label may in fact be a sole-proprietor winemaker tasked with every aspect of getting the wine to market. And what’s inside the bottle may cause you to sweat with excitement. Or wish you had never been born.
I was once given a mysterious bottle. On the label was an illustration of a woman. The type of woman who would slash your throat in the middle of the night while howling with laughter. What’s more, the bottle was from Temecula, California. Temecula is known for tasty sparkling wines but it is not a major wine region. I had yet to taste a good still wine from the area. To be fair, I had not tasted many wines from Temecula. I had no idea who gave me the bottle; it was a Secret Santa gift. The giver remains anonymous to this day. I threw the bottle into the wine fridge and there it sat for months.
Then one night I was cooking dinner and the unimaginable happened: I had no wine in the house. Except for the scary mystery bottle. I took a deep breath, popped the cork, and hoped that killer woman on the label would not pop out like a genie. I wanted wine so I figured it was worth the risk. I’m telling you the story, so you know I lived through it. By now I trust you enough to admit the following: I make mistakes in wine due to preconceived notions. Everyone does. That’s how I know you will make them too. I had to scold myself (again) for having a mindset that the wine with the scary label would taste like gasoline. Au contraire, I enjoyed it. Nobody got killed either, so the dinner got made and my husband did not have to go hungry. Thanks, Secret Santa.
This article is an excerpt from my upcoming book on how to get to know and fall in love with a bottle of wine. Stay tuned for updates on the book, which will be published this fall. -- Lyne Noella
What is drinkability? My explanation is as follows: You bring the glass of wine to your lips. Your nose breathes in a kaleidoscope of fruity and earthy aromas. You take a drink and the beverage winds its way around your tongue like a river. You blink a few times in rapid succession. By this time, the pleasure center in your brain has lit up and is waving a flag that says, Hey, there’s something interesting going on here, pay attention.
You sit up straight and take a second look at what’s in the glass. Your mind dims the sights, sounds and cares of your everyday life, giving the wine center stage. Your nose, tongue and mouth further explore the wine and you take a trip through a field of aromas and an ocean of flavors and sensations. This wine can be bold or shy or showy or mysterious, like some people you know. Provocative even. The point is, It’s delicious!
Over the next hour or two or three, new layers of flavor, aroma and mouthfeel make themselves known as you and a friend consume the bottle. Your body relaxes and you just give in to the sensations. You find yourself thinking, Wow . . . I don’t want this to end. You glance over to your drinking partner’s glass. What is her pace of consumption? Does she love the wine as much as you do? If not, maybe there’s more for you. At some point the last drop has been poured and swallowed. But the flavor lingers like the caress of a lover’s touch. And you are as happy as a gambler who has won every single poker chip in the casino.
Wouldn’t it be a wonderful world if every bottle of wine we bought delivered this kind of drinkability? If that happened, nothing would get done. We’d all be too busy drinking and congratulating one another over our fine luck. What usually happens is that we find ourselves putting down the glass at some point before reaching the end of the bottle. Why? Because we have had enough of that particular wine. We don’t even have to have a reason. We just know. Because that’s what our palate is telling us.
Let me give you an example. You take a drink of a Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley in California. Your brain is wired to appreciate some level of sweetness in any liquid, so your first drink of the wine may indeed light up the pleasure centers of your brain. However, too much of a good thing, such as the sugar level in the wine, may wear thin after a few swallows. You put down the glass and move on to something else. That particular wine has failed to pass the drinkability test. You don’t give up on wines from Napa Valley, however, because you have been informed that many wines from that region have drinkability in spades. You just have not found your special wine today.
More often than I wish was the case, a particular wine does not hold my attention. Like a wallflower, the wine goes ignored while I enjoy the conversation with my drinking partner. I might even forget the glass is on the table. Drinkability? Nope. Have you ever had a wine that grew worse with every sip? That’s the opposite of drinkability. If the wine does not satisfy, is off-putting, or does not factor into your thought process at all, it is a signal to put down the glass. Don’t make the mistake of continuing to drink in hopes of finding satisfaction. You will only succeed in filling your body with ethyl alcohol. And that can’t end well.
There is no point in drinking a wine without a personality. It doesn’t have to be the most wonderful wine you have ever tasted. It just needs to hold your attention, like a car mechanic with a large hook nose telling a fascinating story. You are drawn in by the mechanic’s story but a bit perplexed by his odd nose. In fact, you stare at the nose but your attention soon turns to his story because it’s a good one. That’s fine. Celebrate the unusual, in people and in wines.
Drinkability means you love what you are drinking and you wish it would never end. Do not confuse drinkability with how quickly you drink. A serious Bordeaux blend from the commune of Margaux will not go down like a rosé from Provence, France. Yet, both regions offer very drinkable wines. As with people, each wine has something to say. Allow the wine to set the pace.
If it’s a big wine with a lot of body, chew on it like a meaty bone. If it’s a frilly rosé, just let it glide along your tongue like water runs through a shady creek on a crisp spring morning. One of these wines is perfect for a hot summer afternoon when you’re out grilling. The other is just the thing when you are pondering the meaning of life with your best friend over a prime rib dinner. When you identify drinkability, slow down and savor each drop. Why put a quick end to something good? Think about what the wine is telling you and live for the moment. Breathe. If you want to expand your knowledge of the world of wine, drinkability is a concept that will always be a guest at your table.
This article is an excerpt from my upcoming book on how to get to know and fall in love with a bottle of wine. Stay tuned for updates on the book, which will be published this fall. -- Lyne Noella